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(We ate at Tri Sesira, which had two accordion-led acoustic bands playing simultaneously.) In the winter, when people crowd indoors, it’s quite common to dance on your table to show your appreciation, should the music so move you.Even the magnificent Hotel Moskva, a city landmark built in 1908 and where I stayed, had a piano player at breakfast, which really added to the atmosphere of gilded chandeliers and red velvet furniture.It’s also known for live music, which is so abundant and varied, emanating from nearly every street corner and terrace, that walking outside can feel like stepping into a parade.Bands played in nearly every restaurant in the Concrete Hall, each with a terrace facing across the Sava River toward the Communist-era architecture of New Belgrade — a business district built in the late 1940s on a stretch of filled-in riverbank.Vekic had been able to buy this one at a bargain price.She’s now one of the few female restaurant owners in the city.
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The scene I liked most, though, was in the historical district, Zemun, a former municipality along the Danube that the city absorbed in the 1930s.
There, Iva introduced me to Jasmina Vekic, owner of the 138-year-old fish restaurant, Saran, one of the oldest in the city.
I had met Iva through her sister, Alisa Dogramadzieva, who has worked with The Times’s Eastern European correspondents.
Alisa was in nearby Montenegro, but Iva was eager to show me all her hometown had to offer.
Picking me up for our first night out together, Iva had one instruction: no stilettos.